The igniter is sealed at both ends with polyethylene "hot-melt glue".
The nichrome (nickel-chromium, high resistance) wire serves as the heating
filament (bridgewire), and is soldered to the ends of the copper wire
leads using "stainless steel" solder. Nichrome wire is quite inexpensive
(about $0.20 /ft.) . Alternatively, a strand (or two) of coarse "steel
wool" may be used in place of nichrome wire, or even a strand of fine
copper "speaker" wire.
Nichrome wire can be tricky to solder. An easy and secure way to attach
the nichrome wire to the electrical lead wires is as illustrated
below:
The pressure that is generated by combustion of the igniter charge may
be determined by the following equation:
(Ref. NASA
SP-8051 Solid Rocket Motor Igniters)
P = pressure in combustion chamber at time,
t lbf/in2
r= density of
charge material lbm/in3
D = loading
density = C / V lbm/in3
C = original mass of charge lbm
V = free volume of combustion chamber at time, t
in3
l = R T/ M
"effective force" (energy), in-lbf
/lbm
R = universal gas constant in-lbf /Ь R-lbm
M = effective molecular weight of combustion products (system mass
divided by number of moles of gas) lbm /
mole
T = adiabatic flame temperature Ь R
G = fraction of original charge mass consumed by time,
t dimensionless
Pa = atmospheric pressure
lbf/in2
The effective force, l ("lambda"), may be
calculated from the values of M and T determined from
a combustion analysis (e.g. using PEP program) for any charge material.
Alternatively, it can be readily determined if the impetus for
a particular charge material is known. The impetus for Black
Powder (commercial grade) is approximately 100 000
ft-lbf/lbm. Thus, the effective force for Black
Powder is 100 000 * 12 = 1 200 000 in-lbf/lbm.
If the Black Powder is not commercially made, rather prepared as
described earlier in this Web Page, the impetus will probably be far
less, say, between 50-75% of this value.
Derivation of
this equation
Example
calculation
For convenience, an Excel spreadsheet is available which determines
combustion pressure using this method:
Rocketry software
IGNITER.XLS 68kbytes
MS Excel 5.0
file
Pyrogen Ignition
A pyrotechnic
igniter, as described above, works very well for starting smaller sized
rocket motors. However, for larger motors (i.e. K-class & larger), a
pyrogen ignition system provide superior motor starts. A
pyrogen is essentially a small rocket motor mounted at the bulkhead.
Nearly instantaneous ignition of the motor grain is assured by the high
velocity, particle-laden flame that emanates from the pyrogen. The
pyrogen used for the Kappa rocket motor
is shown in Figure 3.


Figure 3 -- Pyrogen/bulkhead assembly for
Kappa motor
The grain used for this particular pyrogen is cast KNSU propellant,
chosen for its ease of ignition and rapid burn rate. The pyrogen grain
is ignited by a black powder charge, initially contained within the
pyrogen canister by a burst diaphragm. This charge additionally aids
pressurization of the motor.
Mini-bulb Igniter

Figure 4 -- Mini-bulb igniter
An easy to make pyrotechnic igniter can be made in a manner similar to
the igniter shown in Figure 1, except that instead of utilizing a
nichrome bridgewire, a "Xmas-tree" mini-bulb can be used in its place.
This particular light bulb has the advantage of very small size, which
conveniently fits within a soda straw, and requires only a small
electrical current to fire the charge. A 9V battery, for example, works
well.
This igniter may be used for either motor ignition or for
firing a parachute ejection charge.
To make this igniter (shown in Figure 4), the plastic base of the
mini-bulb is first removed and discarded. This exposes the two copper
wire leads, which are then scraped clean of oxide, and soldered to the
electrical lead wires. The other ends of the lead wires should then be
stripped, and shunted (twisted together) for safety.
The glass bulb is then carefully broken open. The tip is first
snapped off, which relieves the vacuum within. A pair of wire strippers
(or other appropriate tool) can then be used to break off the remaining
tapered portion of the glass bulb, leaving the straight portion
largely intact. Care must be taken to prevent damage to the filament
bridgewire or to break the lower portion of the bulb. Initially wrapping
the bulb with tape helps to avoid this sort of damage. An ohmmeter
should subsequently be used to ensure the filament has remained intact
(the measured resistance should only be a few ohms). Don't connect a
battery across the leads -- the filament may burn up as it is now
exposed to atmospheric oxygen.
The mini-bulb is then placed within a 2 inch (5 cm) length of
polyethylene soda straw, and the end nearest the leads sealed with
hot-melt polyethylene glue.
Ignition powder (approximately 1 gram) is then carefully loaded, and
tamped every so often to eliminate voids. The final step in preparation
of the igniter is to tamp in a small ball of glass wool (fibre glass),
and seal the end with hot-melt glue.
Ultra-low Current Igniter
The
following is a description of an igniter that requires very low
electrical power, requiring only 20 mA at 1.2V (= 25mW) to fire. As
such, this design is exceptionally reliable and especially useful in
cold weather operation, which greatly reduces a typical battery's
available power.
This igniter may be used for either motor ignition or for
firing a parachute ejection charge.
The "Ultra-low Current Igniter" was developed for EARco (Experimental
Aerospace Research) by Ken Tucker to increase the safety of Rocketry.
Description
Safety is paramount in rocket experimentation, and so for reliable
operation of parachute ejection systems, 2nd stage ignition, and for any
system that may create a hazardous condition in the event of an igniter
malfunction, a very reliable, redundant igniter may be desirable. Based
on Radio Shacks Part # 272-1139 Mini Lamp (or equivalent), a 1.5 Volt,
25 Milliamp electrical igniter is described. These lamps come equipped
with pre-attached wire leads to facilitate hook-up (see Figure 5). In
practice, the lamp will only require 1.2 Volts and 20 Milliamps to
function.
Construction:
Record the resistance of the bulb using an ohm meter, a reading of,
20 -30 ohms is usual. A hole is ground through the lamp bulb by
carefully grinding the bulb on a fine file or polishing stone. A
magnifying glass is a handy tool to check the progress of the grind.
This requires some patience but after a little practice requires a total
of 5 minutes. As the glass is ground, a hole will occur, at that moment
the vacuum within the bulb draws in the air and some of the glass
shards. To prevent the glass shards from impacting the bulb filament,
the glass should be ground with the filament perpendicular to the hole.
Once a hole is observed, recheck the ohms reading of the bulb. It
should be the same as previous.
Carefully place some black powder into the bulb through the hole.
Just enough to be loose is fine, packing in too tightly could damage the
bridgewire. The bridgewire will explode when heated and will land on the
powder, so the powder does not need to be in direct contact with the
bridgewire. Take an ohms reading again to make sure no damage was done
to the filament. A little Scotch tape over the hole keeps the powder in.
When fired, the igniter will produce the equivalent of a match
igniting, exhausting through the hole. This may be insufficient, so a
secondary burn may be desirable. Place the igniter in a tube an inch or
so long, about the same diameter as the igniter. Fill this with black
powder, and seal the ends. This amplifies the potency of the igniter
(see mini-bulb igniter, described above).
This igniter is quite shock-proof. Hard data is lacking, but this
igniter survives being thrown against a concrete surface, which causes a
few 100g's of deceleration. Its very low current and voltage
requirements allow for numerous redundant igniters in parallel with the
ignition power supply. For example 3 igniters will only require 1.2
volts and 60 ma (3 x 20 ma) to function.
Cold Soak Test
A semi dead "9V" battery (5.1 Volt with mini x-mas bulb load prior to
freezing) was placed in the freezer at -4F for 6 hours. Using the mini
x-mas bulb, with a resistance load of the igniter found the voltage to
be 2.5 volts. It was very dim using the mini x-mas bulb.
Connecting an "Ultra-low Current Igniter" to this dead frozen battery
and it exploded instantly.
Technical Details:
Using a mini x-mas bulb as electrical
load:
New 9V battery....no load 9.8V......loaded 8.2V
Used 9V
battery.....no load 8.8V......loaded 5.1V (nearly dead, not good for
smoke detectors)
Cold Used battery..no load 5V.........loaded 3V

Figure 6-- Mini Lamp for Ultra-low Current
Igniter
"Ferocious" Igniter
During the
development phase of the RNX epoxy
composite propellant, it was learned early on that the "straw" igniter
(described above) was not suitable for igniting RNX propellant grains.
As this epoxy-based propellant has a higher decomposition temperature, a
hotter and more sustained burn is necessary. The solution that arose was
an igniter that used a more energetic oxidizer together with epoxy as a
binder. The resulting product, aptly referred to as a "Ferocious"
igniter, burns with a hot flame for a duration of about two seconds,
reliably lighting an RNX composite propellant grain.
The developmental formulation utilized potassium chlorate (KC) as the
oxidizer, but this was later replaced with potassium perchlorate (KP)
for safety reasons. The Ferocious igniter is made as follows:
A nichrome bridgewire is soldered to a pair of electrical leads,
similar to that used for the "straw" igniter. For motors that have a
small throat diameter, or if the igniter is to be installed at the grain
outside surface (rather than in the grain core), fine gauge
wire such as 30 AWG "wrapping wire" (RS p/n 278-501) should be used. A
pyromix coating is then prepared, using the following
materials:
- Potassium perchlorate, very finely ground using mortar &
pestle
- Sulphur, also finely ground
- High grade epoxy, such as West System (adhesive grade is
not satisfactory)
A small quantity of epoxy mixture is prepared, using the manufacturer
recommended resin/hardener ratio. One half gram of epoxy is sufficient
for 4 or 5 igniters. A sprinkling of sulphur is then added to the epoxy,
just enough to colour the mixture a distinct yellow or light amber. The
mixture is then blended well using a wooden craft stick, for a minimum
of two minutes. A plastic "pan" cut from a 2 litre soda bottle works
well as a disposable mixing pan. The next step is to add the KP, a
little at a time, until the resulting mixture resembles a stiff paste.
Squares of polyethylene sheet , 1" x 1" (25x25 mm) are cut out from a
plastic sandwich bag (or similar), two per igniter. The igniter
electrical leads are placed such that the bridgewire is centred onto one
of these poly squares. A dab of pyromix (approximately the amount
equivalent to a pencil eraser) is placed onto the bridgewire, as shown
in Figure 7. The second poly square is then placed over the pyromix and
carefully pressed down such that the bridgewire is fully embedded. The
resulting thickness should be no greater than 3 mm to prevent fracture
of the pyromix coating upon firing. If the igniter is to be installed at
the grain outside surface, the pyromix should be pressed such that a
thin disc is formed of approximately 2 mm thickness maximum.
The disc form is recommended for both the Epoch
motor and the Paradigm
motor.
The igniter is then set aside to cure overnight at room temperature.
The poly squares are simply peeled off after curing. The cured igniters
can be readily trimmed as necessary. For a more rapid cure, the igniters
may be placed inside a dedicated shop oven set at
65oC. (150oF.). Curing at this elevated
temperature is complete after approximately 1/2 hour. .
The Ferocious igniter has proven to be highly reliable. In over 30
motor firings, not a single misfire has occurred.

Figure 7 -- Top left:
Applying pyromix
Bottom left:
Pressing between poly sheets
Right:
Ferocious igniter in action
For an
alternative "Electric Match" igniter, check out Dave's High
Power Rocketry -- Making Your Own
Igniters . These igniters utilize nitrocellulose
lacquer for a hot and fast burn.